This appears in the latest edition of Conde Nast Traveller.
“ Tonite’s gonna be a
good nite....I can feel it”
“Tonite’s gonna be a good night....” Promise? I
heard a group called “Five Chicks and a Dude’ were up next. And I promptly held
my breath .It was our first night on board the 16-year-old, 70,000 tons heavy, Grand Old Lady ‘Splendour of the
Seas’’, and a full- on Karaoke session
was in progress. Our majestic if slightly run down cruise liner had sailed out
of the calm waters surrounding Venice a few hours earlier and was heading
towards the small Italian port of Bari. The old fashioned (red velvet, Art Deco
chandeliers) Cocktail Lounge- cum- theatre, aptly called ‘Top Hat’ was filling
up slowly. Enzo, the alarmingly energetic crew member, was urging people to
sign up. The bar tender was busy mixing lethal cocktails and the mood was
expectant. First time cruisers were easy enough to spot. They were
the people wearing far too many clothes and street shoes. Some were
fastidiously attired in what is loosely termed
‘cruise gear’ by fashion designers.
Our gang of three ( my daughters Arundhati and Anandita, plus moi) being
veterans, knew better! Smug in our flip flops and mu-mus – we’d mastered the
drill. And had figured it was okay to be really casually dressed on the first
night, yes, even for the lavish four course dinner in the main dining area,
which, on this Royal Caribbean liner, was quaintly called ‘The King and I’(
never did discover why, considering there wasn’t any real connection to either
the musical or the cuisine from old Siam). No matter... we were all set to get
into the swing of things with 1800 other passengers enjoying an Adriatic voyage
which would touch three Greek ports ( Athens, Corfu and Mykonos) before a short
halt ( much too short!) in the historic town of
Dubrovnik in Croatia, and the long sail back
to Venice.As on earlier trips, this one had also started on a high note.
There’s no better ice breaker for so many strangers in the night, than
enthusiastic bathroom singers belting out their favourite songs ( off-key, of
course) for an audience of ummm... non-believers? Sure enough, the hooting
started as the ‘Five Chicks...” ( the ‘Dude’was a gangly , awkward teen whose
voice had yet to crack) finished murdering the popular Club track (“Tonite’s
gonna be a good nite...”). Oh-Oh. So, this was going to be that sort of a cruise! What fun. We’d been on earlier
cruises where the average age had coasted around 70 and everybody had been
disappointingly well-mannered. We’d obviously lucked out on this one, with
several young, energetic and good looking shipmates. For me, as a mother, I
could have wept with gratitude to note that. At least the girls would not roll
their eyes accusingly each time theirs
met mine over the breakfast table and groan, “”Why aren’t there any people of
our age on this ship?”Not only were there enough passengers from their age
group, but the crew was delightfully young and incredibly talented, especially
the Croats in charge of keeping everybody engaged and upbeat on board. What do
you know, one of these chaps was dubbed ‘Happy’ thanks to his cheerful
salutation ‘Happy, Happy,Happy!” as he went from deck to deck performing a wide
assortment of roles, switching wigs and costumes on what appeared to be an
hourly basis.
Since we have been called ‘Serial cruisers’ by
envious friends, we went on this one pretty well prepared.For one, we had
seriously pruned our wardrobe out of sheer necessity.It is important to remember
that even if one occupies a Stateroom with a balcony attached (this is key, and
don’t settle for a cabin with just port holes), space is at a serious premium.
The bathroom is functional but no bigger than a cubicle. The bedroom isn’t much
larger either, and there is just no space for bulky suitcases, unless you park
them in the balcony. Less is more and how wonderful is that realization when
all you really need are three or four super hot swimsuits, a couple of sarongs,
four flirty cocktail outfits, one pair of killer heels, a funky collection of look-at-me accessories besides.... how can I
forget - sherbet eyes! Of course, these
tips are meant for the ladies. But, hey, nothing stops you guys from
experimenting! Especially since most
nights on a cruise are themed and you’d
better work that toga as Enzo and DJ Ved urge the crowd to ‘Show me that
body...” and get grooving by the pool.
The key to make the
most of your cruise vacation is to fall in love on the ship ( it happened with
one of my daughters in the Caribbean, it almost happened with another one this
time!). Moms may need to go into vigilante mode ( pack your Spidey mask, just
in case) since there is a chapel on the
ship and the captain is authorised to marry consenting adults ( too many Cosmos
at the Schooner Bar is a poor excuse). You are also warned about recreating the
Titanic moment on your own. On ‘Splendour....”it was possible to bid for just
such a photo-op (supervised and safe). Guess who won? Not a deliriously in love
honeymoon couple but a Tam- Brahm jodi from Mumbai celebrating their 25th
Wedding Anniversary! The enthusiastic gentleman also participated in the Elvis
Presley competition, an undertaking that involved aggressive pelvic thrusts and
wild moves to “Ýou ain’t nothing but a hound dog...” Well, if you’re gasping,
wait till you hear about the ‘Sexiest Man in the World’contest by the pool, judged by five curvaceous bikini clad
passengers.Who bagged this ridiculous title? Not our Tam Brahm, not even one of
the pumped up Spaniards, or the buff American stud, but a sporting grandpa who
had gamely stripped and shaken his booty to that old favourite, “I’m too sexy
for my body...”’
The other trick to
have the best time on a cruise is to sign up for shore excursions and as many
on board activities as your energy levels can accommodate. I’m not into rock
climbing, putting on an 18-hole mini golf course, playing table tennis, or gymming. But both Arundhati
and Anandita started off their days with a jog around the track on the 11th
deck, and a complete work out at the Gym on the 10th. All that
activity made them feel less guilty while attacking the breakfast buffet, which
is extensive and varied. They made up for their guilt pangs (come on, if you
can’t wallop a few waffles on a vacation, what’s the point of the vacation?) by
opting for healthier options at lunch, ordering fresh salads at the cafe next
to the Spa. As for me, I ate and drank recklessly ( I mean, there are 10 inviting bars and lounges for the desperate and the thirsty), didn’t enter
the gym but indulged myself at the calming salon. Getting a blow dry while
resting ones eyes on the azure Ionian sea shimmering tantalisingly through
floor- to- wall glass panes, was quite an experience.Another, equally
pleasurable first was taking a Salsa and Cha cha cha class, conducted by expert
ballroom dancers ( part of the Royal Caribbean Entertainment Troupe). The
Filipino band playing nightly at the Centrum had wisely figured only those
belonging to a certain vintage ( mine!) would want to shake a leg, pre- and
post- dinner. I ignored the glares of my daughters and bullied them into
partnering me as we swung to ‘Sway’and other oldie-goldie hits. Gosh! Does
nobody jive anymore?
Well, our waiters and
servers certainly did! Jive ... and sing, as a part of the very endearing
ritual during which they temporarily abandon their service stations to croon
and dance for diners. ‘Ó sole Mio’ remains an old favourite, and sentimental diners are often seen wiping
tears as their favourite waiters bid them goodbye on the last night of the
cruise. Ours was named Austin.He is a good Goan lad, and had been sailing for
seven years. There were several Indian waiters on the ship ( “The Mazgaon
Gang”), which was terrific in a way – they made sure we were exceedingly well
looked after, frequently serving us choice bon bons as special treats. Did
these boys miss home? Yes, they all chorused. But the money was good. And even
if there were no Sundays or days off, they enjoyed their work. And hard work it
is! As Gregorios (from Nicaragua) , our State Room attendant told us, “We feel
sad on Saturday morning to see everybody leaving.” He looked like he meant it.
A certain fuzzy relationship does get established with these dedicated men and
women who are on call 24x7, and keep the place sparklingly clean. Some of them
are expert towel sculptors, and one looks forward to staggering back after a
late night at the disco or watching the Euro Cup Semi Finals on a gigantic
screen by the pool, to find an elephant or monkey ingeniously crafted out
of towels, parked on the bed (“Am I
really that shattered or is that really a gorilla swinging in my room?). It is
these little touches that enhance the experience.
It is said a family
that cruises together, stays together. It is a theory I have ardently
subscribed to . Ensuring passengers never forget their cruise , there are daily
photography sessions in the evenings, which encourage two and sometimes three
generations to pose for a highly competent set of professional photographers
who set up temporary studios at different locations on the ship. For most
people, it is the very first time in their lives they are being photographed in
formal settings. The results are superb – and there is no obligation to buy the
prints which are displayed within a few hours. But ( and I have frequently
succumbed!) the temptation to buy at least half-a-dozen great shots that freeze
the exuberant moments on board, is too hard to resist. Equally hard, is to stay
away from the 6,500 square feet, Las Vegas
style Casino Royale, especially if you enjoy your Blackjack or Roulette.Since
our family’s combined vices are of a different kind, we preferred to check out
the nightly shopping in the Arcade, which features interesting sales, depending
on the port of call earlier in the day. I was on the verge of buying
traditional Athenian gold jewellery ( stunning!), when Arundhati determinedly
dragged me away with a reminder that I would be missing the Jacqui Scott show.
Jacqui, a former Broadway / Westend singer brought the house down in the main theatre
with her rendition of ‘Évita’’... and, thanks to my daughter’s timely
intervention, I saved a lot of money! That night, high on the music and wine,
we dined at ‘’Izumi’ the speciality restaurant ( Pan-Asian) on the 11th
deck, right next to the Crown and Anchor nightclub where the dishy DJ Ved was
spinning great tracks. Blame it on the Sake, but emboldened and in the mood, I
mentioned to Ved that Anandita had trained as a DJ herself. He immediately set
it up for her to make a playlist and do her DJ thing! It was a thrilling moment
when Ved announced, “Ladies and gentlemen, DJ Ana from India is in the
house....” That’s when I concluded, it is not just the great food, not just the
cocktails, not just the comfy beds ( so comfy, you can order them online) and
not even the many adventures during shore excursions that make a cruise holiday
memorable. It is really the smiles, warmth and exceptional service that do the
trick. It is also the personality of the Captain. Ours was a darling, and when
he jauntily declared he was ‘írreplaceable”
- nobody disagreed! Especially after he expertly
navigated this _ tonne liner through head winds hitting 60 knots, and made it
safely to Mykonos. Ours was the only cruise ship to dock at this top-rated
destination (Psarou Beach! Nammos!!) in
three days – all the other Captains sailing on the same troubled waters, had
chickened out, citing hazardous weather conditions.
Cruise holidays are
better than superglue when it comes to family bonding. Yes, we fought. Lots! Me
and my girls. We argued, cried, sulked and made up. We also chatted and laughed
more than our ghastly Mumbai avatars
allow us to. Sifting through the countless shots we took , there are magical
moments that I’m sure we will relive years from now while exclaiming, “ God!
Wasn’t that holiday amazing?When are we booking our next cruise?”